A life on the ocean waves for Northallerton sea kayaker Kate Baxter

ONE glance at Kate Baxter's Instagram feed will instantly tell you where her passion lies. In a kayak. There are stunning images (she's also a very competent photographer) of a kayak beached at Bamburgh; a kayak afloat in the rocky coves of the Scottish islands; a kayak rounding the headland at Runswick Bay, on the North Yorkshire coast. Then there's a kayak atop some seaweed-strewn rocks... "the only thing I love more than my bed at 4am", reads the caption. When she's not out paddling, the 39-year-old from Northallerton is in her final year at Teesside University, studying environmental science. "The dream is to use my writing and photography skills to kickstart a new career focusing on my adventures in sea kayaking from an environmental or natural history point of view," says Kate. "And perhaps, one day, I’ll get around to writing a book."

Kate tells the D&S Times about some of her adventures on the waves so far...

When and why did you get into sea kayaking?

I’ve always dabbled in adventure sports like climbing, skydiving and SCUBA diving. Mum and dad had kayaks when I was little and I can remember splashing around at Semerwater in a rubber dinghy, with my brother. But it wasn’t until I turned 30 that I took up kayaking, mainly as a replacement for the rather expensive and inaccessible sport of skydiving. Initially I started paddling on white-water rivers with friends, and I also trained as a British Canoeing coach and raft guide, working casually at Tees Barrage White Water Centre (which I still do). However, about six years ago I found a too-good-to-be-true deal on ebay for a 5m long glass-fibre sea kayak (having never even sat in one), and I’ve never looked back. My white-water friends used to wonder why I’d swapped the thrill of the rivers for ‘old-man’ sea kayaking, but what they didn’t realise is that the sea can be just as exciting as any river rapid, but you also get a whole new sense of freedom that comes with it. I’ve since become a Sea Kayak Leader and write a blog which I hope inspires others to take up the sport, especially women, and I love to hear from people who enjoy seeing what I do.

Kayaker Kate Baxter, from Northallerton

What benefits do you get from it – physically, mentally, socially?

To me, kayaking is everything. It keeps me fit and strong physically, and although I hike and bike a little, it’s my main form of exercise.

I think being near the sea does wonderful things to your brain anyway, but being out actually on the water takes it to a new level. When conditions are challenging, you are there, fully in the moment, and no thoughts are paid to any worries you have at all, and when you’re out on a beautiful day, it gives you the time to notice and appreciate the natural world around you, and somehow those worries don’t seem quite so important anymore. That was one of the main reasons I chose to study environmental science, as I found myself floating along with so many questions about wildlife, geology, windfarms, energy, weather… you name it, the list just went on!

Socially, clubs and organised paddles are a great way to meet new people, and everyone has an inspiring story to tell. For me, I love to see beginners coming into the sport and I’m always keen to offer as much guidance as possible. If I can help just one person experience the joys of paddling as much as I do, I will be very happy.

Where do you like to kayak?

The sea is definitely my passion, I love both the excitement and tranquillity you can find in changing conditions and whilst I do occasionally paddle on rivers and lakes, I especially like to paddle expedition style. This means spending an extended period of time covering longer distances, with everything I need to survive packed into the hatches of my kayak. I tend to do this in Scotland, where there is a little more flexibility over where you can wild camp, but regardless, I always camp responsibly; pitch up late, leave early and most importantly leave no trace. Our region, however, is excellent for day trips, and my favourite stretch lies along the North Yorks Moors coast. Here there are so many little bays to explore, the geology is very special, and the hidden villages like Runswick Bay and Staithes are just magical to arrive at by kayak. However, I think Boggle Hole is my favourite; you need to arrive at the right state of the tide, but the YHA café there is really worth timing it well.

Do you kayak all year round?

When conditions allow, I do kayak all year round and having the right training and kit makes that possible. They always tell you to dress for the water temperature, not the air temperature, and in the event of an emergency this advice will save your life. Although it does make for a boil-in-the-bag experience on unseasonably warm days. I typically wear a drysuit, which allows you to stay dry should you end up in the water. These suits aren’t typically warm (like a wetsuit might be), so you need to dress appropriately underneath and I usually wear base layers similar to what you might wear when hill walking, and a big fleecy onesie.

My mantra before I drive away from home usually goes ‘suit, boots, spraydeck, helmet (for surfing or playing amongst the rocks), buoyancy aid, boat and paddle’, but of course there’s a plethora of other (mainly safety) bits and pieces. Spare paddles/hatch covers/drybags, VHF radio, PLB, repair kits, first aid kits, maps etc. Leading groups calls for more stuff – group shelters, towlines, extra food, extra warm gear, and expedition requires the lot – tent, sleeping bag, stove.. the list can get very long, but luckily I’ve got packing my 5m boat down to an art, so it all has its own little space.

Of course, the main things I can’t be without are my means of emergency communication – I carry three electronic options: a VHF radio, a Personal Locator Beacon and a waterproofed mobile phone. I also carry a whistle and handheld emergency pyrotechnic flares, one of which came in useful one night, for guiding in the Mallaig lifeboat after a companion fell and injured themselves on a remote beach, (it also did a great, if very temporary, job of keeping away the swarms of midges). But if we’re talking about luxury items, it has to be my hot water bottle. I won’t spend a chilly night in my tent without it.

Kayaker Kate Baxter, from Northallerton

Describe the most magical experience you have had?

In May 2019, I was lucky enough to spend five days living aboard the MV Cuma and kayaking in the Outer Hebrides. The jewel in the crown was when the weather allowed us to spend two nights anchored off Hirta in the St Kilda Archipelago, where we were able to explore the islands’ unique history both on foot and by kayak. My bunkmate and I had a brilliant idea to get up during the night to see the stars, however it didn’t occur to us until we were standing there (at 2am, freezing on the deck, in our pyjamas), that it doesn’t get fully dark at those latitudes during high summer, and there weren’t really very many stars visible to see.

It was definitely the wildest place I’ve visited; it’s just so remote, with huge seas, breath-taking scenery and the most gannets and puffins I’ve ever seen in my life. We had hoped to spend more time paddling there, so it remains on the list as somewhere I’d love to return to.

What wildlife do you see out there?

One of my favourite things about sea kayaking is the wildlife and the North East coast is great for seeing seals, but is also a surprisingly good hot spot for dolphin encounters. I always try to purposefully keep my distance but often these animals will approach you. The seals are just fantastic, so characterful and inquisitive, and they will swim along with you for good distances. If you sit quietly, they will often come up for a little chew on your toggles, which tend to trail in the water at the bow and stern of the kayak. The dolphins are always very special, and they too will sometimes come in for a closer look; you don’t realise how big they are until they’re right there, diving under your kayak. I’ve seen Minke whales a few times in Scotland and have often spotted White-tailed sea eagles, however the otters are my absolute favourite. When I’m paddling alone, they never seem to notice me and I’ve been with a few feet of an otter, chomping noisily on a freshly caught fish, more times than I can remember. It’s what inspired me to take up photography, although capturing wildlife is much more difficult than I imagined, especially whilst bobbing around in a kayak, so I’m still learning there.

Are you a member of a sea kayaking community?

I am a member of Wansbeck Paddle Sports Club, based in Ashington, who are a brilliantly supportive coaching club, with a wealth of experience they’re keen to share. I also paddle with Swaledale Outdoor Club, who operate right across the region.

I do, however, still love to paddle alone. I’ve never been afraid of my own company and it gives me an immense sense of freedom to just pack up the kayak and set off at my own pace.