I love tea, and I love gardens. Give me a tea garden and I am the happiest of souls. So imagine what a thrill it was, having planned a beach day at Runswick Bay, to discover the village has a seasonal tea garden at the top of the bank.
It's over ten years since I spent any real time in Runswick, staying in a bed and breakfast there for a night while walking the Cleveland Way with my mam and sister. Our stop off was memorable for a few reasons, partly the pain of climbing the steep road from the beach on very tired legs, but mainly the several increasingly-concerned phone calls we received from the B&B owner worried for the whereabouts of the weary walkers as afternoon turned into evening. As it transpired, when I told him we were late because we weren't rushing and were having plenty of "biscuit stops", what he heard me say was "whiskey stops" – no wonder he was panicking about us ever making it.
This time around, we retraced some of our steps with a beautiful clifftop walk taking in a section of the Cleveland Way towards Kettleness (where we had a biscuit stop) before turning inland along the old railway, now a cinder track, which brought us back out onto Ellerby Lane and just a few hundred yards from the tea garden. Timed to perfection (for a change) we arrived a few minutes after the 11am opening and were greeted by the owner Ann as we looked around her beautiful garden, with its lawns, patios and cheery planters.
Pointing the way to the tea garden beside the bus stop at the top of the bank in Runswick Bay
It could have been the sunshine, it could have been the walk-induced appetite, it could have been the warmest of welcomes, but what followed was a near-perfect culinary experience. Indeed, we had only been there about five minutes before I asked Ann if I could move in.
Having not had chance to put up the full cake-board yet, she talked us through the list (all made by her). The variety was immense, from lemon and lime meringue, to cappuccino cake, to sultana tea loaf, plus fresh scones. There was also 12 different types of sandwiches and six toastie options.
We were mesmerised by the choice, so, despite it being not long off lunch time, both ordered a cheese scone, and pudding, a pot of tea and some water.
By the time our cheese scones arrived, pretty much fresh from the oven, other tables were filling up, all-comers enjoying the same friendly greeting and introduction to the menu.
Our cheese scones were fresh from the oven - and just the right size to allow for cake to follow
The scones were fabulous and entirely the correct size – not these dried up behemoths that many places serve, but light and deliciously cheesy.
After a short break in which Ann brought us some hot water to refill our teapot (before we had even asked) our sweat treats arrived – bramble and apple pie for me and date and walnut loaf for Claire. Well, if I wasn't smitten before, I was now. Packed with fruit filling, the pastry melted in the mouth, and the two generous scoops of ice cream were seriously welcome on such a hot day. It was pretty much perfect.
Bramble and apple pie with ice cream - the pastry melted in the mouth
Claire's date and walnut loaf (she was offered butter, which isn't always a given but should be, in our humble opinion) was beautifully moist and exactly the right sort of power-snack for walkers.
Date and walnut loaf - a perfect snack for hungry walkers
The bill for all these delights came to £12.10 (it is cash only, so come prepared) – amazing value for proper, quality food in a gorgeous setting with the best service I have probably ever experienced. Ann offered to full up our drinks bottles before we left, and in the short time we were there, agreed a couple who didn't have any cash could have their food then come back later to settle up, and after explaining what a Bakewell tart is to another pair, who were unfamiliar with such a thing, completely unbidden brought them out a small slice to try. Brilliant.
We walked on to enjoy the rest of our beach day, reflecting on the delights of a tea garden, but in reality this one was so very much more than tea, in a garden.
Runswick Bay Tea Garden,
Ellerby Lane, Runswick Bay, TS135HS
Open daily from 11am in summer (apart from Thursdays), cash only
Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9 Surroundings 9 Service 10 Value 10
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