It was a rare thing this dreadful summer – a warm summer day.

Not too warm, mind, or humid, which seems to have been the pattern this year whenever the clouds have momentarily lifted.

The sort of classically English summer’s day which demanded that lunch be taken in the sun.

We headed to Helmsley which, of course, is pretty on the grimmest of days. In the sunshine its honeyed and handsome market place was looking its best. There was even a place to park.

Our plan was to eat al fresco at the Italian La Trattoria, which had been highly recommended. It did have a few outside tables, but only one was in the sun and occupied by a couple who knew they had the best spot in town and were seemingly determined to make their coffees last until sundown.

On the other side of the market place is The Feathers which also has some outside seating but it’s right beside the busy A170 road and we didn’t fancy a chemical cocktail with our lunch.

Which left The Black Swan on the northern side of the market place where I could recall having a drink seated outside in the past.

So we sauntered over … to find no outside seating and a big sign saying "Beer Garden" at the rear.

You might think that would be the answer to our prayers but I almost always dread the prospect of a beer garden. So often they are neglected bits of scrubland populated by tatty bench seating, overflowing cigarette butt buckets and smokers busily filling them.

I thought I’d check it out first and made my way through the corridors of the old inn to be … pleasantly surprised. The Black Swan beer garden is a delight. Manicured lawns, beautiful borders, dry stone walls and, on this occasion, bathed in sunshine.

(Image: Malcolm Warne)

As we settled at our table, sipped some ice-cold Madri lager and looked at the lunch menu, I vowed to myself not to be seduced by the weather and the surroundings. Just because the sun was out, the beer was cold, the bees were buzzing and the muffled chatter of happy people filled the air didn’t mean I would be suspending critical judgment.

Reading the menu revealed that The Black Swan is now part of the Inn Collection Group, the chain of pubs and hotels across the North of England which includes The Northallerton Inn.

We are not massive fans of the Northallerton iteration of the group’s impressive refurbishment of some venerable buildings. It’s a stylish conversion of the town’s former police station but the food is not quite up to the same standard.

Happily, the food at The Black Swan did measure to the standard of the beer garden.

Sylvia’s Escalope Milanese (£18) had her raving about the crisp breadcrumbed exterior and the juicy, meltingly tender chicken inside. The basil aioli was the perfect accompaniment and there was also a tomato, rocket and Parmesan salad with some crunchy rosemary potatoes.

My pea, broad bean arancini (£13.50) was a more modestly-proportioned dish from the light bites menu but in its own way a minor triumph. The balls of risotto rice infused with the broad beans, peas and mint were deep fried so swiftly there was no hint of greasiness and they were light and fresh. They came with some rocket salad.

(Image: Malcolm Warne)

We tend to skip dessert especially at lunchtime these days but probably because we wanted to extend our time in the garden we scanned the menu for something light and refreshing, A mango cheesecake (£7.50) was just that. In a sundae dish there was the traditional biscuit base and the cheesecake filling on top with a dollop of fresh mango on top of that.

I couldn’t resist the summer trifle (£7.50) – a rare thing indeed these days on oh-so-predictable sweet menus – especially as it promised to come with a Chantilly cream top layer sprinkled with hundreds and thousands. So it would be a proper, traditional trifle. And everything’s better with hundreds and thousands, isn’t it.

(Image: Malcolm Warne)

The promise was not entirely fulfilled because the jelly/sponge layer was a bit too gelatinous but in every other respect it was rather good and fitted the mood of the day.

We reluctantly took our leave, paying the £52 bill which included £6.30 for the two halves of lager.

Service was good considering meals had to be ferried from the kitchen to all corners of the garden.

We savoured that lunch for days – especially as the sun soon disappeared again and the weather returned to the depressing normality of Summer 2024.

The Black Swan, Market Place, Helmsley, YO62 5BJ

Tel: 01439 770466

Web: www.inncollectiongroup.com/the-black-swan/

Food served: Noon to 9pm Monday to Saturday, Noon to 5pm Sunday.

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9, Service 7, Surroundings 10 Value 8