Such is the popularity of Northallerton High Street for cafes, bars and eating spots these days, that is must perhaps be a tad trickier running a hospitality business just off the main thoroughfare.

The likes of Bettys, Barkers and Lewis & Cooper hoover up a lot of trade, but recent times have seen lots of smart alternatives popping up in the arcades, alleys and squares leading away from the hustle and hustle of the High Street.

One of these quieter corners is Regency Mews, sitting between the two main tracks to Tesco supermarket from the High Street. As such, it's not lacking in footfall on the outside, but the quiet square within feels like a mini oasis of calm – especially if you've braved Tesco car park, with its stressed drivers hunting down the teeny tiny spaces and ad-hoc directional system.

Within Regency Mews is the Fortunate Son Coffee Co, on this occasion the lunch destination for myself and my sister Claire.

I'd visited the same premises once in its previous guise as a vintage-style tea shop, and was impressed by the transformation to a chic coffee house, with soothing green-blue tones, and modern, wooden furniture.

Fortunate Son is owned by Chris Wright, from Seaham, County Durham, who spent 22 years as a Paratrooper followed by ten as an overseas military advisor and security consultant. His post-military career started with selling coffee from a converted Land Rover, and he then opened his Northallerton premises.

The military influence is clear, with books on the windowsill about historic Army volunteers from Seaham, and pictures from Chris's career on the walls. The cafe has also recently begun hosting the Northallerton Armed Forces and Veterans Breakfast Club, and from our lunch experience, it's clear they will get a warm welcome – from both the staff and the cafe dog which pads around the square happily greeting customers.

There are plenty of scones and cakes to accompany the hot drinks, and the main menu is concise, with breakfast options served until 11.30am including bacon and/or sausage sandwiches, granola bowls, toast and teacakes. Lunch options, served from 11.30am to 3.30pm, are sandwiches and paninis with various fillings, all £8, served with side salad and crisps. These are supplemented by the specials board, which on the day we visited, included pulled pork brioche, chicken Caesar salad (both £8) and Lebanese fattoush salad (£7).

I went for the pulled pork brioche, and Claire chose the Caprese panini – tomato mozzarella, basil and pesto.

What struck us both when our plates arrived was just how fresh everything seemed – from the side salad to the fillings, it was clear nothing had been sitting around for long. My pulled pork, covered with melted cheese, was delicious, and although the brioche disintegrated somewhat under the juiciness of its insides, it was nothing that the swift deployment of a knife and fork couldn't solve.

Claire's panini was equally well regarded and we both thought the crisp portion generous – no token measures here and proper, crinkle cut crisps at that.

With two hot drinks, the bill came to a very reasonable £23.40. My cappuccino was excellent – although I am no connoisseur, being a tea drinker at heart. The way I judge coffee is whether or not I immediately need to add sugar after the first sip. No sugar was needed here.

Service throughout was great – we noted that even though it was well past the time for the breakfast menu, a customer at a nearby table who requested a bacon or sausage sandwich was served one with no hassle whatsoever after a quick check with the kitchen.

The whole atmosphere felt very warm and tranquil – just what is needed in these difficult times. Fortunate Son is a quality addition to Northallerton's food and drink offerings – indeed, we were the fortunate ones to be there.

Fortunate Son Coffee Co

18 Regency Mews, Northallerton, DL7 8PD

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 8 Value 9 Surroundings 9 Service 9