Is this the best restaurant in Ripon?

‘THE best restaurant in Ripon by a mile. Definitely.”

The recommendation was unequivocal.

“You mean better than Perk Up, better than the Deanery, better than Lockwoods?” I quizzed my informant.

Yes, she was adamant, Azores Mediterranean Restaurant in Kirkgate was the place in the city to eat at the moment.

So, we fetched up there early on a chilly spring Sunday evening, hoping to be impressed, and mightily too.

Now I know that early Sunday evening is a strange time to eat in some people’s eyes but needs must and the place is open 11.30am “till late”

every day so Sunday’s as good as any, we reasoned.

Perhaps the rather strange time of day was to blame for our first impressions which were not entirely favourable.

In the half light of the tailend of a grey spring day, the restaurant appeared rather gloomy, there were not many folk in and those who were appeared to be on the point of finishing their meals, paying their bills and leaving.

Also, the bentwood chairs were not very comfortable, The staff were friendly enough though, especially the young man who appeared to be the manager and had a head of luxuriant hair most women would give their eye teeth for. Sylvia resisted telling him to get his hair cut – or tied back.

The menu ranged across the entire length and breadth of the Mediterranean, with Italian, Greek, French and North African influences apparent.

Pizza, pasta, risottos, grilled meats and steaks were among the main courses.

Starters were little more limited but we were tempted by the meze (£9.95 for two) which proved excellent. Star of the selection of small appetisers was a firm, very rich and creamy hummus, closely followed by well-stuffed vegetable dolmades (vine leaves), some baked and very mild feta cheese, a garlicky tzatziki, a nicely dressed mixed salad, a bowl of green and black olives and some slightly crisped mini pitta breads to accompany it. It was quite a spread.

As we digested the meze and enjoyed bottles of Peroni and San Miguel lager, we noted Azores took on a very different atmosphere as dusk fell.

It was decidedly more cosy and warm.

The temperature rose further, for me at any rate, with the arrival of my main course, the Azores special risotto (£9.95). a generous plateful, with the “special elements”

being chicken, chorizo and king prawns. The menu said there was also “a hint” of peri-peri sauce. If this was “a hint”, we wondered what chef’s “suggestion” might be.

It was hot almost to the point where the heat drowned the other flavours. The rice element was well prepared although there didn’t seem much depth of flavour to it, as if it had been made with an inferior stock.

Sylvia’s butterfly chicken (£11.95) with a white wine and tomato sauce was very juicy and succulent and came with some small roast potatoes and salad. She couldn’t fault it.

Despite the fact I didn’t finish my risotto, in the interests of research I subjected myself to dessert. The dessert menu was unsurprising but I selected raspberries and meringue (£3.50) which was exactly that. Two meringue nests filled with a mixture of raspberries, whipped cream and a raspberries coulis. It didn’t put chef to too much trouble but it was perfectly acceptable nevertheless.

Sylvia finished her meal with a good latte coffee which, with the inclusion of a second bottle of San Miguel, brought the bill to £45.30.

Is it the best restaurant in Ripon? We somehow doubt that, but for good quality, simple food, served in informal surroundings, with friends or family (it is very child-friendly with a children’s menu and stuff to keep them occupied), it will take some beating.