If the idea of long walks, beautiful countryside and no mobile phone coverage sets your heart racing, next time you’re heading for the Highlands, pull up at the Scottish Borders instead.
Often bypassed for more popular destinations such as the Isle of Skye and Loch Lomond, the Borders have the scenery, culture and same sense of history, but put fewer miles on the clock in terms of distance.
With one of the lowest population densities in the UK, the pace of life at Town Yetholm is slow. There’s a village store, butchers’, pub and a fish van that calls every Thursday and that’s about it. If you’ve ever felt the urge to escape phone calls, tweets and texts, this is definitely the place to come.
It’s barely an hour and a half from Edinburgh and Newcastle and right at the end of the Pennine Way – and there’s a pint waiting at the Border pub for anyone who completes it.
We’re staying at Bowmont House, in Yetholm, a three-bedroom family home, built in about 1870 and with spectacular views over the Cheviots. Originally, the farmhouse for Bowmont Farm, it has been refurbished and turned into a self-catering, pet-friendly holiday cottage, sleeping up to five.
There are period features such as original fireplaces and pine doors throughout, as well as modern facilities like under-floor heating.
The farmhouse-style kitchen is warm and spacious and there is tea and Scottish shortbread to greet us on arrival. Visitors can take advantage of the secluded patio, lawn and barbecue facilities in summer and there’s an open fire in the sitting room when the weather gets chilly. With DVDs, wi-fi and extensive selection of books, there’s plenty to do if it’s raining.
St Cuthbert’s Way passes through Yetholm en route from Melrose to Holy Island, off the Northumberland coast, making it an ideal base for walkers. The quiet country lanes are great for cyclists and it’s a magnet for wildlife such as deer, badgers, foxes, hares and birds.
Bowmont House is owned by Simon and Jo Mountford, who also own Horseshoe Cottage next door. The cottage is a former stable, named after they found 100 horseshoes midway through all the improvements.
The cottages are a convenient base for exploring the local area with its abbey ruins, castles and pele towers. They are also popular with families as the Bowmont River is gentle for children to paddle in and an idyllic spot for a picnic.
After dropping off our bags, we head to nearby Kelso for lunch at Ednam House Hotel.
Seven miles from Yetholm and situated on the banks of the River Tweed, it’s the salmon fishing mecca and a perfect setting for lunch. Believed to be a favourite of Jeremy Paxman, AA Gill and Chris Tarrant, expectations are high.
Ednam House dates back to 1761 and retains a lot of its original character, having gained a reputation as one of the finest Georgian mansions in the Borders. As with most old houses, it’s got a story.
James Dickson (whose portrait hangs above the fireplace in the entrance hall), ran away from Kelso at the age of 11 to escape the authorities after breaking the pant well of the town. He went to London and made a fortune in the spice trade before eventually deciding to return to Kelso.
Needing to find a house to match his stature, he built Ednam House in 1761 with no expense spared. After he died, the house had various owners until Ralph Brooks took over in 1928 and turned it into a hotel. Its current owners, Anne and Ralph Brooks, are the fourth generation of the family to run it.
Ralph is passionate about his food and almost everything is done in-house, from baking fresh bread and making their own jams, marmalade and ice cream to curing their own bacon. The restaurant specialises in food that is “unfussy and full of flavour” and, as you’d expect, the smoked salmon is amazing.
Keeping it in the family, a lot of the French wine comes directly from Anne’s family, who are award-winning winemakers and own vineyards across France.
After lunch, it’s time for a stroll around Kelso, its abbey, racecourse and ride-outs where up to 200 riders pass through the town in June.
Among the other highlights is the Pharlanne delicatessen, featuring local, regional and continental cheese and meats. You can sit in and enjoy a coffee and chocolate crepe or stock up on fresh, ready-made meals featuring local ingredients.
Quiet by day, Kelso comes to life at night and it’s impossible to ignore the clamour coming from the Cobbles, which is standing-room only. The inn draws crowds on a Friday night which come in their droves to hear the Kelso Folk and Live Music Club, which is still rattling off classics well into the early hours. Get there early enough to bag a seat.
With the coastal fishing villages of Eyemouth and St Abbs, and Berwick upon Tweed, within reach, as well as Bamburgh Castle and Kielder Water, there’s no shortage of scenery and things to do.
After a long day, we cross the bridge and do the short walk over to Kirk Yetholm for dinner at the Border Hotel. Dating back to 1750, it’s a popular family-run hotel and recently refurbished its restaurant. There’s a friendly welcome and extensive menu.
- For further information about the cottages at Yetholm, call 01573-420244 or email jo@cheviotcottages.co.uk.
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