A FEW miles west of Durham City, the Browney and Deerness rivers flow through what was once part of the Durham coalfield before combining and continuing south to join the Wear at Sunderland Bridge. Virtually all traces of industry have been erased in a most successful reclamation scheme, making the area popular for outdoor activities.
Our easy 7.5-mile walk starts from the west end of Broompark village on the B6301, some 200 yards beyond the Loves pub and next to a playing field with a small car park (GR 242419).
Leave the road by taking the path on the opposite side of the road from the playing field. It passes down the side of West Broom farmhouse and reaches the Deerness Valley Walk in about 300 yards. Turn right. The old railway which carried coal from the nine local collieries to the main line at Durham. closed in 1964 and the trackbed makes for easy walking. In less than a mile we cross a tarred lane and then the river and continue through a dense wood for another half mile to a bridge carrying a lane over the track. Go under the bridge before turning back up steps to the road. Go left up to the B6302.
Cross over and uphill on Broadgate Road. At the top looms the hulk of Ushaw Farm, built as part of the Ushaw College estate by the architect Joseph Hansom in 1852.
Turn right at the farm and in a few yards go left on a path with the college away to the right. In 200 yards, turn right past a barrier down the service road along the formidable looking buildings which were built between 1840 and 1885 by A Pugin and Hansom and Dunn for the Catholic Douai community. They settled here after fleeing their base in northern France during the French Revolution. For nearly two centuries, it was famous as a seminary for training Catholic priests, but closed its doors in 2011.
In 2012, it was given a new lease of life by Durham University Business School, being temporarily located there. It appeared unoccupied when I passed by. Even its grade II-listed chapel, the masterpiece of Pugin and Hansom was firmly closed. Perhaps the university has plans to open it to public view, but at the moment there are only distant glimpses of the splendour of some of its Gothic windows and pinnacles.
Continue along the track, which bends left to a cottage (or take a shortcut through the trees on the right of way to the left of the green rubbish bins). Some 150 yards beyond the cottage, go half right on a path which cuts through a plantation of willows to a stile. Views open up down into the valley of the Browney and across, right, to Durham Cathedral.
From the stile go ahead over three pastures and then, after another stile, down the steeper slope of an arable field (there’s a tractor track a few yards to the right) to a kissing gate and the Lanchester Valley Walk. Turn right.
Another of Durham’s many industrial lines, the Lanchester branch railway, was opened in 1862 to carry iron ore from Cleveland to the Consett ironworks. It closed in 1966. Like all the other Durham railway walks, this makes for easy and direct walking. On this section it crosses Bearpark, once the country estate of the priors of Durham, the name deriving from Beaurepaire, the Norman-French for beautiful retreat.
In half a mile, at a barrier, go left on a track down to a bridge over the Browney. On the far side leave the track by climbing right for 100 yards to the remains of the priors’ manor house. It was built in 1258 by Prior Bertram de Middleton. His successors used it for the monks during the four periods of ludi each year as a place of relaxation from the strict monastic rules applied in the priory attached to the cathedral. Important guests were received here too including the kings Edward I, II and III in the 14th Century.
In 1346, it was occupied by the Scottish army before the Battle of Neville’s Cross, which was fought on the ridge visible a mile to the south-east. The scanty remains consist mainly of the prior’s house.
Our walk now returns to the track at the bridge. Go right to climb to Bearpark Hall Farm. The lane continues past Stotgate high above the Browney before descending to the road from Durham to Langley Park where turn right, down to the river.
Next to the modern road bridge is the 15th Century Aldin Grange Bridge, with an unusual, almost flat arch, which once carried the road from Durham into Bearpark.
On the far side, use the pavement for some 200 yards before turing left on a path signed through the estate of Aldin Grange fishing pools. Formidable gates mark the boundaries of the estate but there are side gates for walkers.
The path then climbs over the ridge between our two valleys with good views over to Neville’s Cross and the cathedral. It then joins a bridleway where bear right for Broompark.
Walk facts – River Deerness and River Browney
Distance: 7.5 miles Time: 4 hours Grade: Easy Conditions: Well-signed field paths and railway walks Refreshments: The Loves, Broompark Map: OS Explorer Map 308
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